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Welcome to Crawford's Corner!

If you have further questions, please write to Bruce at Crawford@njaes.rutgers.edu

Foliage for the Holidays

December 21, 2020 By Bruce Crawford

December is undoubtedly best known for the Holidays, family gatherings and festivities that invariably include decorating the homestead with colorful plants. The plant most frequently used of course is the Poinsettia. I like Poinsettias, but for the past few years I have been discussing plants that provide holiday cheer while continuing to improve in size and appearance as the year to come, or better yet the years to come, pass. One group of plants that I have greatly enjoyed as colorful houseplants are species of the genus Peperomia, commonly called Radiator Plants.

PeperomiaPeperomia is in the family Piperaceae or Pepper family, which derives its common familial name not from peppers we eat as a vegetable, but from Piper nigrum, the source of black pepper! The genus Peperomia consists of nearly 1,000 species, most of which are found throughout tropical regions of South America, although a few are located in Africa, Mexico and the Caribbean. The genus name was penned by the Spanish Botanists Hipólito Ruiz López (1754-1816) and José Antonio Pavón Jiménez (1754-1840) in 1794, following their 3 botanical tours of Peru and Chile during 1777 and 1788. The name Peperomia comes from the Greek Pipéri for pepper and Hómoios for resembling or similar, once again a tribute to its distant cousin Piper nigrum. The common name of Radiator Plant was coined by the famed horticulturist Liberty Hyde Bailey (1858-1954); since the plants enjoy warm air and bright light, much as one would find on a window sill above a radiator, he deemed it apropos! For nearly all species of the genus, the foliage provides the primary ornamental appeal, although the flowers are intriguing. The horizontal rows of small flowers are located along a 2-5” long spike (image at right) that emerges from the apical tip of a stem. They are certainly not stunning, but they do provide a touch of interest. Very little research has been conducted on the flower pollination, but it appears many of the plants produce seed asexually via agamospermy, whereby unfertilized ovules yield viable seeds!

VariegataOne of the easiest species to grow is Peperomia obtusifolia, commonly called Blunt Leaved Radiator Plant or Baby Rubber Tree. The species epithet comes from the Latin Obtusus for dull or blunt and Folium for leaf, providing the foundation for one of its common names. Originally described by the German botanist Albert Gottfried Dietrich (1795-1856) in 1831, this native of Mexico and the Caribbean has 1-2” glossy round leaves that appear along stout stems. The plant produces a low, almost shrubby habit, growing to 18” tall by 2’ or greater in diameter. The stems are somewhat brittle and care should be exercised when handling. For December, the form ‘Variegata’ sports attractive creamy white and soft green variegation. Interestingly, there are several forms of ‘Variegata’ on the market. Some have a broad, creamy white margin with an irregular, silvery green central splash that nicely compliments the deep red color of the younger stems (as seen on the left). Others have mottled white and green foliage that is somewhat less impactful yet still very attractive. Regardless, these forms provide great colors for the season.

Peperomia clusiifolia, the Red-edge PeperomiaAnother easily grown species is Peperomia clusiifolia, the Red-edge Peperomia. Originally named Piper clusiifolia in 1789 by the Dutch Chemist, Doctor and Botanist, Nicolaus Joseph von Jacquin (1727-1817), it was not until 1829 that the British systematic botanist William Jackson Hooker (1785-1865) properly described the plant. Native to the West Indies and Venezuela, the species name describes how the leaves are similar to the tropical genus of woody plants Clusia, which was named after the famed Artois botanist, Carolus Clusius (1526-1609). The plants have thick waxy paddle shaped leaves, growing to 3-4” long with a prominent red margin and red stems. The variety named Tricolor (pictured at right) features foliage splashed with red, white and green, producing a most attractive plant for the home that can be paired very nicely with some Poinsettias! As with the previous species, plants reach upwards of 18” tall and gradually spread to 18-24” around.

The most commonly grown Radiator Plant is Peperomia caperata. The origin of the plant is actually unknown, since the botanist Truman G. Yuncker (1891-1964) described the plant in 1958 from a plant in a private collection. The species name is Latin for wrinkled, which very aptly describes the deeply veined and corrugated foliage. There are a number of dark purple and green foliaged forms, but one of the most handsome for December is ‘Silver Ripple’, with almost reflective, silvery foliage between deep green veins (pictured below).

Most species of Peperomia are epiphytic, dwelling in tree tops where they are exposed to brighter light than on the ground below. They grow on decaying branches or composting leaf litter trapped amongst the base of branches. As a result, they prefer well-drained potting soils that are rich in humus and kept on the drier sides, especially during the winter months. In fact, Peperomia caperata develops decay if the crown remains wet and benefits from the pot being placed in a container of water, allowing the water to be absorbed from the base, keeping the crown dry. P. clusiifolia and P. obtusifolia are much less fussy, although they too benefit from the soil being kept drier during the winter when active growth slows. All species prefer warm temperatures and should be kept away from cool drafty windows where the ambient temperatures could dip below 55°F. Although not a necessity, increasing the humidity does benefit the plants. If space allows, setting the pots on top of gravel in a shallow dish flooded with water will increase the humidity. Also, just because the plants are listed a ‘houseplants’, it does not preclude them from being used outdoors come the summer – a mistake made by many a gardener! In late May, place the plants outside in a lightly shaded area, where our humid warm summers will encourage lush growth.

Peperomia will certainly not replace Poinsettia for its seasonal color. However, Peperomia does provide a colorful and enduring plant that will only increase in beauty with the passing of the years. Happy Holidays to all!

Peperomia

Bruce Crawford
Director, Rutgers Gardens

Gardening Notes for November

October 30, 2020 By Bruce Crawford

November has dawned partly cloudy and breezy with the promise of the first heavy frosts. From the early autumn lack of rainfall and cool nights, our trees have erupted into a bonanza of spectacular colors and the soil is now adequately moist to bring plants safely into the start of winter without the worry of drought. The light frosts of October and even September in northern areas have started to impact our annuals but very soon, they will need to be removed with the onset of colder weather. Even though the weather is becoming cooler, there is still much to do in the Garden!

Things to do:

  • For those growing carrots, beets, turnips or Jerusalem artichokes and wishing to extend the harvest into winter, apply a heavy mulch of straw to the crops to prevent the soil from freezing deep and both ruining the crop and making harvest near impossible. Parsley will continue to grow well into December, especially if covered by a basket on particularly cold nights.
  • Mulch garlic with a 3-4” layer of leaves to prevent heaving of the cloves.
  • Consider setting up a low tunnel and cover it with Agribon fabric to easily extend the growing and harvesting season through December. It is ideal for Bok Choi, spinach and other cool season vegetable crops.
  • Remove and compost the warm season vegetables. If you witnessed signs of late blight in your tomatoes, make certain to remove all the foliage and vines of the plants from the garden. It is best to compost them separately if possible and reuse the compost in other portions of your yard.
  • Fertilize and lime the lawn – after a soil test! November is the ideal time to develop a proper root system to get your lawn through next summer’s heat and droughts while the soil test will tell you what formulation of fertilizer is best.
  • Remove heavy accumulations of leaves from lawn areas. Minor amounts can be shredded and allowed to filter through the grass to the ground. These leaf fragments have been found to be a good source of organic matter and beneficial minor nutrients for lawns.
  • Bring in all the hoses and drain outdoor pipes and irrigations systems before the start of heavy freezes later this month. We have had a good rain of late, but should several weeks pass without rainfall, supplemental irrigation is still needed for newly installed plants.
  • For Roses, Peonies, Lilacs, Dogwoods, Beebalm and other plants that may have had black spot, powdery mildew, or other foliar diseases, make certain that all the leaves that could overwinter disease organisms, are removed from the base of the plants.
  • Shred and mulch your beds with newly fallen leaves – the lawn mower can dual as a good shredder of the leaves, provided they are not too thick. They can be shredded and they serve as great mulch for annual, perennial and shrub beds. There is no harm in mixing in some grass clippings with the leaves.
  • Remove frosted or tired looking annuals from the flowerbeds and compost those that do not reseed or make certain the seed heads are removed. Cleome or Spider Lily will readily reseed over the course of the next year!
  • Finish digging and bring Canna, Alocasia, Colocasia (pictured at right), and Banana roots into the basement. Divide the clumps and either repot them into a new container, making certain to keep the media only slightly moist for the winter or wrap them in several sheets of newspaper.
  • Remove the seed heads from Asters as soon as they finish flowering to prevent self-sowing. Many a pink flowered cultivar will magically become blue flowered as the seedlings overwhelm the desired selection.
  • As the frosts become more severe, some perennials that lack winter interest will require cutting to the ground to keep the border neat and tidy. However, it is important not to become overzealous, since many ornamental grasses and perennials provide winter habitat for many of our native bees and pollinators. Others, like Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan) and Echinacea (Purple Cone Flower) are important sources of food for birds like Goldfinches. They can also provide attractive winter outline, as witnessed by the Pycnanthemum muticum (Mountain Mint) pictured at the end of the article.
  • As the foliage of Bearded Iris (Iris germanica) turn brown with the frosts, make certain to remove all the brown foliage since the moth of the Iris Borer lays her eggs on the foliage where they will overwinter and cause harm to the rhizome next summer.
  • For those with Fig trees, late November is the time to wrap your plants or bring them into a cool basement or garage if they are in a container.
  • Finish planting bulbs. Remember, they need to be planted to a depth of 3x the diameter of the bulb. It always takes longer than we think, and some garden centers may offer sales towards the end of the month. For a more mature and impactful display, consider planting several bulbs per hole.
  • Continue to weed as time permits! The cool season weeds are flourishing. Getting ahead of them now will help to prevent them from flowering and going to seed come spring.
  • Finish emptying clay containers that can crack over the winter and store them in a protected area or upside down and under a tarp if left out-of-doors. For terracotta pots, make certain that the pottery is washed well to remove all the built up fertilizer salts and place out in the sun to ensure that they dry thoroughly before storing.
  • At the end of the month, pot up Paperwhite Daffodils and Amaryllis for the Holidays.
  • Look over your Garden and contemplate which areas are in need of interest in the form of plants with fruit, form or evergreen foliage. November is still a great time to plant deciduous shrubs and many perennials. In fact, some may be discounted at your local garden center! It is important to mulch your newly planted selections with 3-4 inches of mulch in order to retain moisture and reduce potential heaving for smaller plants.
  • If you purchase container grown plants at end of season, check to make certain their roots are not encircling the soil mass, as seen in the image at the right. If so, make certain to tease apart the root ball thoroughly as you plant. This will prevent girdling roots and the loss of plant vigor in the future.
  • For the houseplants that you brought indoors during October, continue to monitor them for insects and resist the temptation to overwater! Also, remember to rotate the plants 90° or so every couple of weeks. This ensures the plant will not stretch in one direction towards the light. This is especially true when you first bring the plants indoors, as they are probably still growing and are very prone to grow towards the sunlight.
  • Save some interesting seed capsules from perennials such as Blackberry Lily, (formerly Belamcanda chinensis now Iris domestica) and combine them with Holly or Beautyberry (Callicarpa species) for a wonderful Thanksgiving centerpiece.
  • Enjoy a Happy and Wholesome Thanksgiving with your family and friends!

Bruce Crawford
Program Leader in Home and Public Horticulture

A Floral Star in the November Garden

October 30, 2020 By Bruce Crawford

Let’s face it, November is not a month best noted for flowers. The spectacular fall colors of various trees and shrubs abound, but for the pollinators, there are scant few flowers left to visit. Even most of our native plants have succumbed to the autumn frosts. However, over the past few years, I have noticed one plant that has sustained both blooms and pollinators well into November – Aster tataricus, commonly known as the Tatarian Aster.

Aster tataricus is native to the cold regions of Siberia, Northern China, Mongolia, Korea and Japan, where it is native to moist meadows and wetlands. It is a member of the Asteraceae or Sunflower family, which contains close to 32,000 species. Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778) first penned the genus name in 1753 from the Greek Astēr for star, referring to the star-like form of the flowers. Linnaeus established Aster amellus, the European Michaelmas Daisy as the type flower to which all the other plants for this genus are referenced. Initially home to an enormous number of species, the genus was reduced to around 180 species found throughout Eurasia, based on more recent and improved understanding of the genetics. Carolus Linnaeus the Younger (1741-1783), continuing in his father’s footsteps, published this species in 1781 in his book Supplementum Plantarum. The species epithet tataricus comes from Tartay, an archaic name for the geographic region that extended from the Caspian Sea and Ural Mountains east to the Pacific Ocean, including the areas to which this plant is native.

Aster tataricus is a robust plant, to say the least. The coarse, paddle-like shape of the foliage always reminding me of Horseradish with the basal green leaves reaching 16-24” long and up to 6” wide (pictured above). The plants are rhizomatous in nature and can spread over a fairly substantial area of the garden, providing a rather pleasing yet coarse groundcover. In late August to mid-September, the flowering stems elongate, reaching an impressive height of 5-8’ before blooming! The stems are hispid or clothed with straight bristly hairs along with more modestly sized leaves of 3-4” in length and 1” wide. The top of the flower stem branches freely, producing abundant flower buds that open from late September through early November. The flowers (pictured at right) typically have between 12-18 lavender-blue to blue ray florets that resemble petals, surrounding a center of yellow disc florets, creating a beautiful display.

The Aster’s stems are very sturdy and unless the plants have been excessively fertilized, they do not need staking. Although the traditional thought would be to place the plant at the back of the border due to the height, the plants also look great when worked in among grasses such as Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ (Feather Reed Grass) that typically matures to 5’ tall (pictured at left). The blue flowers peaking above the grassy foliage, providing a very natural appearance similar to their native meadows. The flowers also have great symbolism. Hanakotoba is the ancient Japanese art of assigning a meaning to a flower, which in turn allows a person to communicate with others without any spoken words. ‘Flower talk’ so to speak! Aster tataricus expresses remembrance, a tribute I suspect due to its late blooming nature!

If the species form is a bit too tall, the selection named ‘Jindai’ grows to a more controlled height of 3-4’ tall. Rick Darke of Longwood Gardens and Sylvester ‘Skip’ March of the U.S. National Arboretum discovered this selection at the Jindai Botanic Gardens in Tokyo Japan during 1985. Although shorter in height, they are still spreading in nature and need to be watched to ensure they do not grow beyond their bounds by removing unwanted rhizomes early in spring. I have also found this habit to be a benefit, since the plants will spread into neighboring shrubs and create some attractive combinations. In one instance, as pictured at right, the Aster has spread amongst a Bonica® Shrub Rose and the sky blue flower of the Aster looks great growing amongst the soft pink flowers of the Rose! It has also spread into a Salix alba ‘Britzensis’, commonly known as Coral Bark Willow that is coppiced or pruned back to 8-10” annually. The stems of the Willow develop a light red coloration by mid-October, providing a nice backdrop for flowers. Another pleasant combination is with Amsonia hubrictii, the Blue Star Amsonia; the yellow fall color of the Amsonia pairs beautifully with the central yellow disc flowers of the Aster, as seen in the image below. So many combinations!

Both the cultivar ‘Jindai’ and the straight species produce copious amounts of nectar late into the season and are beneficial to a number of pollinators, including bees, beetles, moths and wasps. The plants are best grown in full sun in moist to average garden soil. As I have discovered, they do require more acidic soils and fail to perform well in soils with a high pH. Other than occasionally rogueing out some rhizomes that have ventured too far afield, Aster tataricus is very low in maintenance and truly is one of the ‘Flowering Stars’ in the November Garden.

Bruce Crawford
Program Leader in Home and Public Horticulture, NJAES

Gardening Notes for October

October 1, 2020 By Bruce Crawford

October marks the true start of autumn and much work for the gardener! We are now racing against time to complete our chores before that first strong frost. September was a fairly dry month, so watering chores are certainly high on the list! Always remember to take a moment and make some notes about your garden. Among other details, take note of what annuals are still looking respectable, which late season vegetables are living up to expectations, and perhaps what woody plants or perennials should be added to enhance the autumn garden for next year!

Things to do:

  • Finish ordering and start planting spring flowering bulbs.
  • tuberous rooted plantsPrepare tuberous rooted plants for winter. Those such as Elephant Ears (Alocasia and Colocasia), Dahlia, Canna, and Banana (Musa and Ensete), which have a storage-type of root system can be dug, allowed to dry (as seen at right), cut back, wrapped in newspaper, and stored in a cool (50-55°F), dry basement. They can also be potted into a container and kept on the drier side throughout the winter.
  • October is likely to be the last chance to take and root cuttings of tender plants, such as Spurflower (Plectranthus), Coleus, and Geraniums. Other plants that are not of hybrid origin can be overwintered by collecting the seed and stored in the lettuce draw of the refrigerator. Various species of Solanum, Asclepias, Nicotiana and Amaranthus are ideal for overwintering in this manner. Remember, the average frost date is October 15th, although frosts appear to be coming later and we may not receive a killing frost until early November.
  •  Red Stemmed WillowsTime to take care of your containers. Bring in, empty and clean any valuable containers to prevent damage from freeze-thaw cycles of winter. Wash clay containers inside and out to remove salts from fertilizers. For plastic and other weather resistant containers, add annuals that are more tolerant of frost for autumn color, such as Chrysanthemums, Ornamental Cabbage, Kale or even Red Stemmed Willows (Salix alba ‘Britzensis’), which can remain and provide color throughout the winter (pictured at right)!
  • Keep those lawn mower blades sharp! If the fallen leaves are not too thick, shred them weekly with the lawnmower and use them as mulch for your flowerbeds. The finer pieces that remain behind actually help improve your turf when they filter to the bottom and break down.
  • Early October is still ok for over seeding bare spots in the lawn so long as you are able to irrigate it at least weekly.
  • Remove annuals that appear tired or are frosted. They can be replaced with an attractive bed of pansies. During the winter, lightly mulch the pansies with straw or shredded leaves as they will make a great show come spring.
  • Plant deciduous trees and shrubs. This is actually the ideal time to plant woody plants, since the soil is still warm, allowing most species to produce roots well into December and better preparing them for the stress of next summer. Planting evergreens is fine through the middle of October, but it is best to wait until spring if planting goes much later. Evergreens are still transpiring water through the foliage and without an adequately developed root system, they often scorch during the winter.
  • Make certain all trees and shrubs planted this year still receive a weekly watering should rainfall be slight.
  • shredded leaves for mulchFor the vegetable garden, it is time to finish harvesting potatoes and squash. Carrots, radish, chard, sun chokes, parsley and other cool season crops can be harvested as needed. Garlic should be planted by mid October and mulched with salt hay or shredded leaves (Pictured at right). Areas of the garden that are bare can be mulched with compost, manure (fresh or composted) or seeded with winter rye or other green cover crops. These cover crops can be turned into the soil early the following spring and provides a great source of organic matter.
  • If you are interested in adding a low tunnel to your vegetable garden, seed out the cool season crops now, such as spinach, lettuce and kale and line out the hoops. As the temperatures begin to drop, cover the hoops with agribon (a fabric material) and then with the advent of hard frosts cover with poly. This allows the crops to continue to grow throughout the winter months or until harvest!
  • Remove the foliage of problematic perennials such as Bearded Iris and Peonies. The foliage serves as a location for the Iris Borer to ay their eggs and for Peonies, the old foliage retains the spores for Powdery Mildew. It also helps to reduce fungal disease for next year and eliminates winter cover for mice, moles and voles!
  • For seed producing plants like the various species of Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan) and Echinacea (Purple Cone Flower), it is best to not cut the flower stems back until spring, since the seeds provide food for Gold Finches and other seed loving birds. Butterflies also seek shelter under flower heads during early fall. Rudbeckia maxima, the Large Coneflower, is pictured below.
  • Where possible or in more wild areas, leave the leaf litter behind, since it provides cover for larvae, egg masses, hibernating native bees, dormant spiders and many other beneficial insects!
  • Ornamental Grasses are typically left standing for the winter interest, but the stems also provide a home for cavity nesting native bees, as do old raspberry canes.
  • Evaluate Oaks for Bacterial Leaf Scorch, which is easy to spot due to the lack of rainfall. If the leaves have turned brown in August and September under the duress of the drought, have an arborist evaluate the trees for spring treatments or removal.

Bruce Crawford

Program Leader in Home and Public Horticulture, NJAES
yellow flower

Plant of the Month for October 2020 – Salvia

October 1, 2020 By Bruce Crawford

Salvia – A Sensational Plant for Autumn Color

October is the month that truly evokes autumn. The temperatures are starting to cool, the foliage has started its autumn symphony of colors and many of the summer annuals are now looking tired. This is the time when gardeners truly need a new plant palette for late season color. Although Salvia, commonly called Sage, is typified in NJ by summer blooming annuals, some of the species and cultivars really begin to shine in autumn, and Salvia leucantha or Mexican Bush Sage is among the best!

Salvia is the largest member of the mint family or Lamiaceae containing close to 1,000 species of shrubs, herbaceous perennials, biennials and annuals found throughout Central and South America, Eastern and Central Asia and the Mediterranean. The genus name was first used in the writings of Pliny the Elder. Born as Gaius Plinius Secundus (23-79AD), he was a Roman general who studied plants and natural environments throughout his military expeditions. The genus stems from the Latin Salvere, meaning to feel healthy. He was most likely discussing the culinary Sage, now known as Salvia officinalis that had long been renowned for its healing and health virtues. SalviaThe common name of Sage also originated from the word Salvere, which transitioned to the Old French Sauge, and later to the Middle English Sawge before finally becoming the word we know today! The Swedish botanist, Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778) officially named it Salvia officinalis in 1753. It is also the ‘type’ species for the genus, to which any new or existing species are compared. The species epithet officinalis was a term that Linnaeus originally coined in 1735 and used repeatedly throughout his career. It stems from the Latin officina, which initially meant workshop or place of work. It transitioned to the name of a storage room in monasteries where medicines and medicinal plants were stored. Officinalis means ‘belonging to an officina’ and Linnaeus affixed this epithet time and time again to describe plants or animals that were known to have medicinal benefits.

Salvia flowers come in a multitude of colors, ranging from red to white to various shades of blue and indigo. Often the calyx or leafy bracts at the base of the flower are darker in color as seen above in a flower of Salvia ‘Amistad’, which adds to the ornamental appeal. The size of the flower also varies from ½” to nearly 3” in length. The flowers are also much beloved by pollinators but, what remains hidden from casual observations is the rather unique mechanism for ensuring pollination. The corolla is a combination of all the petals and Salvia petals are divided into a large overarching upper corolla lip and what appears like a pollinator landing pad for a lower lip, as seen in the image above. Both the long thread-like stigma that receives the pollen and the anthers that shed pollen are located within and protected by the arching upper corolla lip. What makes pollination unique is how the anthers became modified over time to ensure pollination. Anthers consist of a slender threadlike filament that is attached to the base of the flower with typically two pollen releasing structures at the apical or tip of the structure called theca. The theca are actually connected to a small horizontal structure called a connective, which in turn is joined to the tip of the filament. SalviaIn most plants the connective is so reduced in size that the theca appear to be attached directly to either side of the filament. In Salvia, it is speculated that the anthers became reduced from an initial count of 4 to 2, while the connective became elongated, pushing one theca closer to the tip of the upper calyx lip and the other, nonpollen bearing theca, deeper into the base of the flower. Over time, the lower or basal theca lost their ability to generate pollen and joined together, producing a wishbone shaped structure that pivots on the tips of the two filaments. In the image above of Salvia Embers Wish™, the lower lip of the corolla was cut, exposing the nearly white connectives and filaments that are attached to the lower corolla. The knife tip is pointed to the lower, non-pollen bearing theca. The arrow points to the filaments, upon which the connective pivots. At the very base of the flower are the nectaries that are laden with a sugary liquid, which the pollinators naturally wish to reach when visiting the flower. When the insect or bird enters the flower or pushes in its beak to reach the nectaries, it hits the bottom end of the wishbone structure, allowing the two pollen releasing theca to pivot down upon the back or head of the visiting pollinator. After several days, the anthers finish releasing pollen while the two stigma that are seen protruding out of the front of the flower above, become receptive to pollen and lower, brushing across the back of the visiting pollinator and collecting the pollen deposited from a previous flower. Thus, the sacrifice of the two theca to create this pivoting wishbone structure actually enhanced the chance of pollination rather than diminished. In addition, with the anthers and stigmas ripening at different times, the flower will not ‘self-pollinate’, since crosspollination creates more vigorous offspring. Ingenious!

salviaAlthough many summer blooming forms of Salvia are still in bloom come October, one of the best species for autumn is Salvia leucantha, commonly called Mexican Bush Sage. It is native to central and eastern areas of Mexico that feature tropical and subtropical weather conditions. In February of 1791 it was named by the Spanish botanist Antonio José Cavanilles (1745-1804), who was one of the first botanists from Spain to appreciate and accept Linnaeus’ concept of genus and species. Leucos is Greek for clear, white or pale, and Anthos is Greek for flower, describing the white flower that is subtended by a velvety purple calyx. As the weather cools, the flower color deepens to a light lavender in color, as seen in the image at right that was photographed in early November. The plants mature to 2-3’ tall and wide, with the arching, 4-6” long flowering racemes beginning to appear in late August and continuing until heavy frost. The 3-4” long leaves are oppositely arranged and much like the calyx, they are also slightly pubescent. Like all the species of Salvia, Mexican Bush Sage prefers full sun and well-drained soils and thanks to the scented foliage, it is also deer resistant. It also makes a superb container plant and is an excellent substitute for Chrysanthemums should you be looking for something different.

The various cultivars and species of Salvia remain a very popular addition to summertime gardens, but gardeners often overlook the late summer and autumn bloomers since they lack flowers when most people are buying plants in May or June. When considering the autumn garden, look to adding this spectacular annual to your garden. Spectacular for adding late-summer through November color to the Garden, for its interesting pollination strategy and for its ease of culture! This is a Salvia that most certainly belongs in your garden!
salvia

Bruce Crawford
Program Leader in Home and Public Horticulture, NJAES

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