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Welcome to Crawford's Corner!

If you have further questions, please write to Bruce at Crawford@njaes.rutgers.edu

Gardening Notes for April 2021

April 2, 2021 By Bruce Crawford

As we experienced a year ago, the act of getting out into your Garden continues to be a great option as many of us continue to work at home. Plants continue to display their beauty and working in the soil and seeing things grow is a very calming. This will probably be a year that many homeowners continue to grow their own vegetables, and the garden retains its importance to many home gardeners. As the sun and warmth of April unfold, take a deep breath and prioritize what must be completed vs. what could be postponed for a day or two. Remember, gardening is our hobby and we do not need any more pressures or deadlines in our life!

Things to do:

  • Finish pruning roses, small trees, and coppiced shrubs early in the month. Techniques for pruning red and golden-stemmed dogwoods (Cornus sanguinea cultivars) and willows (Salix), depends upon the deer browse pressure. Either ⅓ to ½ of the older stems can be cut back to 6-12” or the entire plant can be cut to that height as seen in the image below of a Red Stemmed Willow (the pruned plant is at the right of the image). Leaving some of the existing stems helps protect the young shoots from deer predation. Shrub roses can be cut in half to prevent them from becoming overgrown, while the stems of hybrid tea roses should be cut down about 2/3’s to a bud that is facing outward. Hydrangea arborescens cultivars can be cut back to 3”; Hydrangea paniculata cultivars can either be cut back severely to 12” or pruned lightly, leaving a 3-4’ tall framework for new growth to emerge; Hydrangea macrophylla should be thinned with the oldest and most branched stems cut to the ground while Hydrangea quercifolia should simply be lightly shaped.
  • For ornamental flowering trees, thin out any water sprouts or ‘suckers’ that appear on branches that will grow into and become abrasive to existing branches above. Branches that rub against each other damage the bark and allow air and decay to impact the branches.
  • Finish cutting back ornamental grasses and perennials.
  • If you overwintered bananas outside (such as Musa basjoo), remove the insulating leaves and the surrounding wire cage.
  • Divide grasses and perennials if necessary. Remember that the center portion of the plant is the oldest and least vigorous and should be discarded. The outer, more vigorous ring will yield at least 10 new plants, with 9 of those going to friends, a new garden, or a curbside sale!
  • As soon as the early blooming bulbs (such as Snowdrops, Winter Aconites, Snowflakes and Scilla) have finished blooming, the clumps can be dug, divided and moved about the garden if so wished. These bulbs are much more successfully spread about in spring while still actively growing than when purchased as dormant bulbs in autumn. It is also financially more prudent!
  • If your Narcissus have stopped blooming, they may be planted too shallow or are in need of division. Plants can be dug, divided and replanted while in leaf, as seen at left.
  • Continue potting up Canna, Banana, Alocasia and other tropical plants that were overwintered in the basement. Make certain to test the tubers to ensure they have no soft spots or decay
  • Edge bedlines and compost the pieces of turf that have been removed.
  • Finish thatching and raking lawns. Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass control to established lawns before or during Forsythia bloom, if crabgrass was a severe problem in 2020.
  • Apply fertilizer and lime to lawns and Vegetable Gardens as prescribed by soil test results.
  • Apply corn meal gluten to flower beds as a weed pre-emergent and mild fertilizer as an organic alternative.
  • For the Vegetable Garden, finish sowing tomato, pepper, and eggplant seeds. Earlier seeded Lettuce, Swiss chard, broccoli and cabbage seedlings can now be planted outside, especially under low tunnels or in containers. Many new gardeners do not realize how many vegetables can be grown on a sunny deck in a container! For tomatoes, if you sowed your seed in a tray and the first leaves or Cotyledons are now well developed, tease apart the seedlings and install the plants in individual cells. Tomato seedlings can be planted deep, since roots will develop along the entire stem, providing a stout and strong plant (see images above –planted too shallow on the left, planted to the proper depth on the right).
  • Resist the urge to turn over or work the soil of your vegetable garden if the soil is too moist. In fact, try not to even walk on the soil if possible. If you can make baseballs from the soil, it needs a few more days to drain.
  • It is best to actually put a soil fork into the ground and rock it back and forth to loosen the soil, vs rototilling. Breaking apart the soil damages soil borne mycorrhizae, which in turn enhance the growth of your vegetables!
  • Early in April for those in Southern locations, later for those more Northern areas, seed can be sown directly in the garden for Beets, Carrots, Spinach, Cilantro, Lettuce, Arugula, Mustard Greens, Bok Choy, Peas and Turnips.
  • It is time to plant potatoes, as they are typically planted 2-3 weeks prior to the frost free date (May 15 in central NJ). Only use ‘seed’ potatoes from a seed company and resist using potatoes that you have bought at a grocery store that are sprouting!
  • Remove the wintergreens from containers and plant bulbs, pansies, primroses, evergreen grasses, etc for early spring color. Consider using the grassy foliage of Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’, the Golden Sweet Flag pictured below, as a chartreuse accent plant for spring containers! Also consider many varieties of Lettuce and Swiss Chard, as they are also very attractive and mix well with Pansies and Primroses. Plus, you can harvest a meal right from your containers!

April 2021 Plant of the Month: Chionanthus – A Tree of Eloquence and Grace

April 2, 2021 By Bruce Crawford

I am often accused of using descriptive adjectives more typically reserved for people when discussing plants. Terms like handsome, attractive and elegant frequently roll of my tongue, along with far less complimentary terms on occasion. On the other hand, terms like eloquent, ethereal and graceful are words I typically do not use to describe a plant. However, I do believe they are the perfect adjectives to describe the Fringe Tree, botanically named Chionanthus virginicus, especially while it is covered with its fleecy white flowers of spring.

Fringe Tree is a member of the Oleaceae or Olive Family. The genus includes nearly 150 species, almost all of which are evergreen and native to tropical regions of the world. Chionanthus virginicus is native from NJ south to Florida and West to Oklahoma and Texas. The genus name was originally penned by the Swedish Botanist Carl Linnaeus in 1753; inspired by the snowy white flowers, he crafted the genus from the Greek Chion for snow and Anthos for flower. Linnaeus also provided the species epithet and described the plant in 1753. The species name refers to the colony of Virginia, which in 1753 not only included the current state of Virginia, but also the regions now known as Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois and portions of Ohio and Western Pennsylvania.

ChionanthusIn general, Chionanthus virginicus is slow growing, appearing naturally in moist woodlands along stream banks and in exposed rocky glades. It frequently appears as a multi-stemmed shrub, reaching 15-20 feet tall and slightly wider, as pictured at right in the Morris Arboretum. However, under perfect conditions, they can reach heights of 30 feet by equal or greater widths. Depending upon the year and location, the white flowers that inspired the name can appear in late April, although May into early June is more typical for NJ. The floral display lasts for upwards of 2 weeks and looking up into a canopy of the pendant flowers can be a very transformative moment for the gardener! The flowers emerge from buds at the base of the leaves or leaf axils and freely dangle along the stems. The flowers are arranged in panicles, which have a central stem with three-flowered clusters radiating outwards along this stem. The overall panicle ranges from 4-10 inches long and up to 6 inches wide. The plants are dioecious, with individual plants having all male or all female flowers, a trait certain species adopted to prevent self-pollination and inbreeding depression. The individual flowers consist of 4-6 strap-like lobes or petals that are up to 1 inch long on the female and slightly longer on the male flowers, by 1/16” wide (as pictured at right).Chionanthus The flowers are wonderfully fragrant and give the plant a very appealing lacy or fringe-like appearance that gave rise to its common name. In some regions the plant is also called Old Man’s Beard, since the dangling panicles resemble a frothy white beard! The male flowers have 2 stamens that aid in making the flowers appear showier, while the female flowers have a single central stigma. Although the male flowers may be showier, it is the female flowers that develop clusters of blue to purple fruits come September. The fruits are technically called a drupe, with each containing a single large central seed. The drupes are much beloved by birds and are a good reason for not planting a clonal mass of simply the showier male selections. The fruits are equally vital to the garden, if not more so, for their attractive display and provisions provided for wildlife (pictured below in late November).fruits

The foliage appears with the flowers and is positioned such that it nicely compliments rather than hides the blossoms. The leaves are a dark, glossy green, measuring 4-6 inches long by 2 inches wide and transform to an attractive golden yellow come fall, especially if the plant is located in full sun (pictured below at the end of the article). The bark is a smooth gray on young stems, maturing to a ridge and furrowed or occasionally a warty appearance on older specimens.

The other commercially available and hardy species for North American gardens is Chionanthus retusus, the Chinese Fringe Tree. Native to China, Korea and Japan, it too grows as a multi-stemmed large shrub, reaching 10-20 feet tall and wide. It can also appear as a single stemmed small tree, whereby it can reach heights of 30 feet tall. Individual plants are often genetically oriented to their ultimate form, although training will have some impact on whether they assume a shrub or tree habit. Chionanthus retusus was originally brought to Europe in 1845 by the Scottish botanist and plant hunter Robert Fortune (1812-1880) with a second specimen appearing prior to 1860 from the English botanist and plant collector Charles Maries (1851-1902). The species epithet is from the Latin Retundere, meaning to pound back or blunt. A retuse leaf has a rounded apical tip with a v-shaped notch, which describes the foliage of many plants with their rounded, glossy green leaves that are up to 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. Interestingly, some plants have elliptical foliage that comes to a point. The leaves also have a thick almost leather-like texture. The plant was named and described in 1852 by two individuals: the English botanist and orchid enthusiast John Lindley (1799-1865) and the English Gardener and Architect Joseph Paxton (1803-1865). The foliage is much more frost tolerant than its North American cousin, with the foliage remaining green through a number of heavy November frosts. During most autumns in the north, the foliage drops while still green in late November, but in more southern gardens the foliage will change to a buttery yellow.

ChionanthusChionanthus retusus also has dioecious flowers. The flowers differ from their North American cousin by being erect and produced from the apical buds at the tips of the branches. Although the panicles are smaller, only reaching 2-3 inches long and as wide, the petals are wider, reaching from ⅛ to nearly ¼ inch wide (as seen below). The wider petals combined with the apical positioning of the flowers provides for a more dense and brilliant floral display (pictured at left), which is attractive yet not quite as ethereal as its cousin in my opinion. ChionanthusThe bark is showier on this species, as the younger stems are cinnamon brown in color with small waves of peeling bark running the length of the stems. Over time, the bark matures to a dark brown and gradually becomes ridge and furrowed.

If space is restricted and a more columnar form is needed, consider Chionanthus retusus ‘Tokyo Tower’ (pictured below). It slowly matures to 20’ tall by 8’ wide. The plant pictured below was planted 12 years prior to the picture being taken, when it measured a more humble 4-5’ in height! The form is decided upright and once again it yields an attractive floral display. The plant is female and produces an attractive fruit set in the fall, providing a male plant is within a pollinators reach.

ChionanthusBoth species of Fringe Tree perform admirably in full sun or light shade and are very adaptable to a broad range of soil types and pH. I have seen large specimens of Chionanthus retusus planted near busy roadways where they are subject to significant amounts of road salt throughout the winter without any noticeable impact. The American Fringe tree is hardy to zone 3 and while the Chinese Fringe Tree is only hardy to zone 5, they are both suitable for NJ gardens. The one issue to consider and keep an ever watchful eye out for is Emerald Ash Borer, as both species are susceptible.

Eloquent and graceful, Chionanthus is certainly a plant that has been overlooked too long in the gardening world. It is very easy to grow and, providing you have chosen seedling diversity, you will not only have an attractive spring floral display, but a late autumn display of fruits complimented by our foraging winged friends. What more could a gardener ask?

Bruce Crawford
Program Leader in Home and Public Horticulture

Gardening Notes for March 2021

March 4, 2021 By Bruce Crawford

March can be such a finicky month! Several years ago there was a long warm spell, only to be followed by two nights with extremely cold temperatures which killed many plants, including many Hydrangeas, to the ground! Some years we see snow storm after snow storm, while some years it is merely rain. Keep referring to notes or your diary from last year as to when you sowed seed and performed other chores as you need not reinvent the wheel. Also, keep making notes for this year so that you can see if any of the changes you made yielded better results!

Things to do:

    flowers

  • Remove excess leaves and or winter evergreen boughs from early sprouting perennials and bulbs.
  • Finish, or perhaps start cutting back ornamental grasses and perennials. Remove the foliage of acaulescent Hellebores (Hellebores that produce flowers from the crown, not the tips of last year’s stems), such as Helleborus x hybridus cultivars or Helleborus atrorubens pictured at right. Try to tend to this as early as possible in the month so the declining foliage does not distract from the flower display or flower buds are accidentally removed.
  • Cut and remove shrub or small tree stems that may have been broken during winter storms.
  • March is time to finish pruning! Finish removing up to 1/3 of the older stems of Lilacs, Kerria, Forsythia, Slender Deutzia, Weigela and other multi-stemmed flowering shrubs. For Hydrangeas macrophylla, remove a few of the oldest stems, while Hydrangea arborescens cut to near the ground. Hydrangea paniculata cut back more aggressively if they have a more open panicle such as ‘Fire and Ice’ (pictured at right)Hydrangea paniculata or just receive a light pruning if the flowers are dense with sterile florets. Purple and Golden Smoke Bush should be cut back to 6-12” to provide optimum foliage color, although such treatment will sacrifice summer blooms. Red or Golden Stemmed Dogwoods and Willows should be cut back to 6” or less every 2-3 years to encourage new shoots to develop, which will sport the best red or gold stem color. Have had great success with cutting red stemmed willows (Salix alba ‘Britzensis’) back annually. Vitex (Chaste Tree) can be cut back hard (to 12”) or moderately (3’), depending upon how tall you wish the plant to grow in your Garden – obviously, the less you cut it back, the taller the plant will grow this season.
  • Prune Butterfly Bushes back to 12-18” in height, and Russian Sage, Lavender, and Caryopteris back to approximately 6” in height. Do not prune Rosemary plants in spring, but rather wait until summer to shape and/or harvest stems.
  • Pussy Willow

  • Prune 2-6’ long stems of Forsythia and Pussy Willow to bring inside for forcing. Salix ‘Mount Aso’ is an attractive pink flowered form of Pussy Willow, bred for the cut flower industry (pictured at left).
  • Prune shrub roses back by about ½. For hybrid Tea Roses, cut plants back by ½, making certain that you cut to an outside facing bud (those small red dots, typically subtended by a leaf scar are leaf buds).
  • Thatch lawns and overseed bare or thin areas. It is best to thatch the lawn when it is dry, allowing at least several days to pass after a rain before attempting to thatch.
  • If Crabgrass was an issue in 2020, apply pre-emergent on lawns for Crabgrass control before Forsythia shows any flower color.
  • Take soil samples from turf and vegetable garden areas to determine pH and soil fertility requirements. They should be submitted via a mailer that is available at the local extension office. Try not to walk on soil if it is wet or saturated, since it will compact, reducing the air spaces and destroing the soil structure.
  • Edge bedlines and lightly remulch bed areas. If the beds were mulched last year, only 1-2” of new mulch should be needed unless there was significant erosion or the mulch was removed with the autumn leaves! Remember, shredded leaves make a great mulch!
  • Seed out peas and radishes at the end of the month. The old rule of thumb was to sow the seed on St. Patrick’s Day, which may be too early and cold in northern NJ, unless you have very sandy and well-drained soils.
  • Start Broccoli seeds indoors in early March, tomato seeds from mid-March on and eggplant, peppers and parsley towards the end of March.
  • Remove your Canna, Colocasia and Alocasia tubers from their winter storage boxes, pot them up in an adequately sized container, and place in a sunny window. They will sprout best if bottom heat is provided. Water sufficiently to keep the soil moist but not wet until you start to see signs of life.
  • Bring Brugmansia and Edible Figs out of the dark basement, start to water regularly and place in a warm sunny window.
  • Any Plumaria (common name of Frangipani) that was stored in the basement should also be potted up and brought into an area with bright light.
  • If you have a straggly Coleus plant (reclassified as Plectranthus scutellarioides a few years back and now once again Coleus scutellarioides!), you may wish to take cuttings and start new, stronger plants to move outdoors for summer display.
  • Succulents that have been kept indoors should be repotted in spring if they have roots wrapping around the root ball when removed from the container. Or, if the roots have literally lifted the plant and the soil up to the lip of the pot and all the water runs over the rim when watered. Shake off some of the previous soil, prune off any decaying roots and repot in a container that is 2”+/- larger in diameter. Use a well-drained potting media, since succulents resent most soils.
  • Groom your succulents as well, removing any brown and desiccated foliage. If the plant has become too leggy, as often happens after several months of low intensity light, you can cut off the upper portion of the plant that has foliage, let the wound callus over by laying it on a table for 3-5 days and then stick the rosette back into a container with well-drained soil. The stem will typically regenerate new roots and a new plant!
  • Echeveria leaves

  • Remove any tired or half-brown foliage from your houseplants and provide a 2-4 month granular feed or a ½ dilute liquid feed every month through September starting in March. As the day lengths get longer, the plants will start to grow and the extra feed will be appreciated.
  • Many succulents can also be propagated by simply laying a leaf on top of the soil or even on a bench top (Echeveria leaves are pictured at right). A new plantlet and roots will typically appear at the base of the leaf within several weeks!

Bruce Crawford
Program Leader in Home and Public Horticulture (NJAES)

March 2021 Plant of the Month – Snowdrops – The Start of the Garden Symphony

March 4, 2021 By Bruce Crawford

Every autumn, gardeners visit their favorite garden center and are confronted by rack upon rack of rather unsexy appearing ‘bulbs’. Occasionally, a gardener will take a leap of faith and buy a few of the dry, papery brown objects in the hopes of flowers, similar to those prominently presented on the display will magically appear the following spring. And magically, appear they do! With the first promise of warmer weather, bulbs begin to awaken and start their spring ‘symphony’ of color. Of the bevy of bulbs available to brighten your garden, there is none as iconic nor as willing to lead the symphony as the white flowering Snowdrop.

Snowdrops are botanically known as Galanthus with roughly 20 species stretching from the Pyrenees of northern Spain and southern France east through southern Poland and Italy to Syria and Northern Iran. Although a member of the Amaryllis family or Amaryllidaceae, their physical appearance certainly does not bear any resemblance to the Amaryllis flowers that adorn many a January windowsill. I realize it will never happen, but plants growing from dormant underground structures should technically be called geophytes, not bulbs. A true bulb consists of layers of modified leaves, such as seen when slicing open an onion. Aside from true bulbs, geophytes include corms and rhizomes, which are actually modified stems and are solid when cut open. Snowdrops are a true bulb, composed of modified leaves with each bulb roughly the size of a thumbnail. The common name of Snowdrop first appeared in 1663 in the book ‘Great Herbal’ written by the English botanist John Gerard (1545-1610). The origin of the word is uncertain, although it certainly does look like a drop of snow emerging from the ground. Galanthus was initially penned in 1735 by the Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus (1717-1778) in his first major document named Systema Naturae. Honoring the milky white flower, the name is derived from the Greek Gála or milk and Ánthos for flower.

SnowdropsThe most common species planted in Gardens, and very deservedly so I might add, is Galanthus nivalis. This species is also the type species for the genus, against which all species are evaluated and compared. This species was also named by Linnaeus in 1753, with the species epithet coming from the Latin meaning ‘of the snow’ or ‘snow-covered’. Typical to the genus, each bulb produces two linear leaves that ultimately grow to 6-8” long. The flower scape emerges from in-between the leaves when they are merely 1-2” tall as seen at left. The flower scape ultimately stretches to 6-8” tall as well and terminates in what appears like a shepherd’s crook, with the flower dangling from the center of the crook (see image below of Galanthus elwesii). When the flower initially emerges from between the leaves, the bud is held upright and is enclosed by a protective leafy bract or spathe. The spathe consists of two modified leaves called spathe valves and two transparent membranes. The spathe valves are located on either side of the flower bud and appear as slender green lines, as seen in the image above.

SnowdropsThe two transparent membranes are connected to the spathe valves and wrap around the bud. As the bud expands, the membranes split open and fall away, while the 2 spathe valves elongate and curl downward, forming the ‘shepherd’s crook’, as the image of Galanthus elwesii depicts at right. As the spathe valves elongate, the flower bud transitions from an upright bud to a dangling flower, located near the center of the spathe valves. An incredible ‘dance’ and fun to watch evolve if time permits!

As is typical to all members of the genus, the flowers are composed of 6 white tepals. A tepal is an organ whose function is to attract pollinators, but there is no true distinction between the inner petals and the outer leaf-like sepals. The 3 outer tepals are usually pure white in color with a longer and more linear shape, although some seedlings have a more rounded form. They are convex in cross section and are roughly ¾” long for this species. Initially hanging downward, they flair outwards on warmer days, giving the flower greater presence and expose the three inner tepals to pollinators. The inner 3 tepals are bilobed at their tip, roughly 1/3 the length of the outer whirl and grow tightly together to form a central cone. Each inner tepal bears green markings, which vary by species. G. nivalis has a single green mark spanning the two lobes at the tip of the tepal. These markings not only act as nectar guides for pollinators, but are photosynthetic and aid in producing sugars for the production of seed. Snowdrops go dormant by late May. SnowdropsThe compressed growing period pressures the genus to produce as many carbohydrates as possible for generating seed and developing new bulbs for the following year. Albeit small, these green markings aid in the production of the needed sugars! Interestingly, the foliage and tepals also contain small air-filled spaces that allow the flowers to tolerate subfreezing temperatures as they begin to bloom. The globe shaped ovary is located above the tepals, with the small black seeds maturing in mid to late May. The seeds have an attached lipid rich structure called an elaiosome, which not only feeds and attracts ants, but serves as a means of seed dispersal.

‘Flora Plena’ is one of several cultivars that has numerous additional tepals, producing a ‘double’ flower (pictured left). When viewed from above, the additional whirls of tepals gives the flower a fuller appearance, much like how a Hoop Petticoat impacts a dress. Unfortunately, the extra tepals also add weight to the flower, causing it to droop and the details of the bloom are not evident unless it is physically turned towards the viewer. It is also one of the last forms to bloom, typically still attractive and in color in April!

SnowdropsAnother readily available species is the formerly mentioned Galanthus elwesii. The plant resembles its cousin in all aspects except it is larger with the outer tepals reaching an inch or longer in length. They are often the first species to emerge and feature green markings on both the upper and lower ends of the inner tepals. They can even be connected, as seen at right. The larger outer tepals results in a flower upwards of 2” in diameter when fully open! The species honors the British botanist and entomologist Henry John Elwes (1846-1922), who came across a mass of large flowered Snowdrops in 1874 while botanizing in the mountainous regions near Smyrna, Greece. In 1875, the English botanist Dalton Hooker (1817-1911) honored Elwes with the species epithet. Interestingly, the plant that Elwes found was actually a previously described species named Galanthus gracilis and Hooker’s species name was used to describe another, as of yet unnamed large flowered species!

SnowdropsAnother delicate and very attractive species is Galanthus ikariae. Named by John Gilbert Baker (1834-1920) in 1893, it is native to several Greek islands in the Aegean Sea, including the island of Ikaria for which it is named. If the island’s name sounds familiar, it is named after Icarus, who in Greek legend escaped from King Minos by fabricated wings from feathers connected by wax. When he flew too close to the sun, the wax melted and he fell to earth. Legend has it he was buried on this island that bears his name! This species bears smaller pendant flowers to 1” long and a single green mark on the tips of the inner, bi-lobbed tepals (pictured at right). Often, this green mark will extend half way or further up these tepals. The foliage is glossy and more attractive than the mat-green forms, growing to 6-8” tall. Not ideal for plugging into turf since the reflective foliage does not blend well with turf grass. In the wild, the plant is often found in river valleys, growing with Cyclamen hederifolium in deep humus rich soils. It has also been found in upland gravely soils in scrubby growth. The plant is somewhat less winter hardy, but I have not had any issues in over 30 years of growing the plant. Unfortunately, it does not appear to naturalize as readily as other species.

Snowdrops are an easily grown bulb, providing your garden is zone 7 or colder, since they resent summer heat. The challenge is often getting them established. Due to their smaller size, some of the bulbs desiccate before they arrive on retail shelves. The most successful time to transplant is while the foliage is still green and they are in active growth! All the species enjoy well-drained soils and thrive in full sun or in locations beneath deciduous trees. Plant to a depth of three times their diameter or around 3” deep. They are best planted in random groups with 3-6 per hole to provide a more mature appearance. Consider interplanting among deciduous shrubs such as early blooming Quince (Chaenomeles) and Witch Hazel (Hamamelis), or at the base of Red Stemmed Willow (Salix alba ‘Britzensis’). Or plant in turf, providing you can wait until the second week of May to make the first cut, allowing for the foliage to go dormant before it is cut.

Snowdrops are a remarkably easy and rewarding bulb for your garden, typically the first bulb, or if I may, geophyte to awaken in the NJ garden. I should also mention the vast number of unusual Snowdrop selections available from specialty nurseries with unique green or yellow markings. These selections can drain the checking account, yet in moderation they will enhance your appreciation for this plant! Whether ordering bulbs next fall or plants this spring, Snowdrops will delight you for years to come as they start your spring symphony of garden color.
Snowdrops

Bruce Crawford
Program Coordinator for Home and Public Horticulture (NJAES)

Gardening Notes for February 2021

January 25, 2021 By Bruce Crawford

The month of January provided near average temperatures for the month, although the start of February is forecast to be colder as I write these notes. February is the month to finalize any design considerations for the year to come since March becomes busy with gardening activities. This month is also the time to complete the ordering of seeds, since many of the more popular varieties will soon become sold out. On warmer days, make it a point to walk through your garden, enjoying its beauty and giving thought to exciting new spring improvements. Reread your journals from last year, and focus upon how to improve those parts of the garden that performed poorly or on how to repeat last years’ success stories!

Things to do:

    gardening pruners

  • Sharpen pruners and handsaws in preparation of the many pruning tasks to come. If you own a by-pass pruner, like a Felco (pictured at right) or Corona, take the pruner apart to sharpen since the side of the blade without the beveled edge needs to be laid flat on a sharpening stone to sharpen.
  • If you own a saw with a tri-edge blade that is dull, they are notoriously difficult to sharpen and it is probably best to simple purchase a new blade.
  • Clean and sharpen the edge of spades, as well as make certain wheelbarrows and other tools are in good shape for the season to come.
  • Start to prune fruit trees, including apple, pear and quince as well as grapevines. For budded fruit trees, including Pawpaws (Asimina), make certain to remove root suckers, since they are actually the understock and are not the plant/fruit variety that you wanted.
  • Prune winter damaged branches if your garden experienced snow, ice or wind damage. When pruning back to a trunk, be certain not to remove the swelling where the branch meets the trunk, otherwise called the branch collar. The collar aids in the healing process.
  • Should it snow this month, knock the snow off of shrubs to reduce limb breakage.
  • Begin to prune multi-stemmed shrubs, such as Forsythia, Lilac, Deutzia and Weigela. These plants flower best on younger stems necessitating the removal of 1 to several of the oldest canes in order to provide light for the growth of new canes. For Lilac, if the plant only has one or two large trunks and it is not suckering, it is most likely grafted onto privet understock. In these cases, it is safer not to prune the plant back harshly, since it will not sucker from the base.
  • Bring Forsythia, Quince and Witch Hazel (Vernal Witch Hazel is pictured below right) branches into the house for forcing or to enjoy the flowers and fragrance should they be in bloom.
  • Witch hazel

  • Clean-up the greenhouse. Check on the heat mats and grow lights to make certain everything works and is clean. Check as well for sufficient potting soil, labels, fresh markers for labelling and pots for the seeding and potting tasks to come?
  • Near the end of the month, start to sow seeds indoors for cool season crops such as Broccoli, Cabbage and Leeks and for warmer season crops or ornamentals, such as Begonias, Eggplants and Hot Peppers.
  • Finish ordering seed for spring. Go through your stored seed and discard packages that are over 2 years old. Or, you can place some of the older seeds on a moist paper towel and place in a warm spot (like on top of the refrigerator) to evaluate the percentage of germination. If few seeds germinate, discard the package. Organize them by sowing time to make life easier for April and May!
  • Check on the bulbs that you have brought into the garage or placed in a protected spot outside for forcing. The Crocus and Snowdrops should be ready to bring inside soon for you to enjoy.
  • Check on stored tubers and corms, such as Canna or Elephant Ears. Discard any that are showing signs of decay.
  • With the days becoming longer towards the end of the month, begin to water indoor plants more frequently – but do not saturate, since that will encourage fungus gnats & root decay.
  • Lentel Rose foliage

  • Cut back Lenten Rose (Hellebore x hybridus) foliage (pictured at right) and other early bloomers, such that the foliage does not distract from the floral display. Watch areas where early spring bulbs are planted for some early color (and to avoid stepping on them!)
  • Cut back any matt forming perennials, such as Nepeta (Catmint). Often rodents will hide beneath the foliage and either eat the crowns or create homes. Leave behind any fallen leaves or lightly mulch to protect the crowns from freezing temperatures.
  • Do not remove any temporary winter mulch on Perennial beds, such as the boughs from the Christmas tree, unless it is around those early spring blooming bulbs. Late February and early March can still be bitterly cold.
  • Continue to apply anti-desiccant sprays to recently planted Rhododendrons, Hollies, Camellias or other evergreens that are in an exposed location on days with above freezing temperatures.
  • Watch for deer predation and set up fencing if needed.
  • When temperatures rise into the 40’s, get a head start on edging those bedlines and spreading mulch where possible. Every day that you can complete a springtime chore will relieve some of the burden of the April panic to get everything done.

Bruce Crawford
State Program Leader, Home and Public Horticulture (NJAES)

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